Costumes: Dodecanese - Tilos

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This particular woman's costume is worn on festive occasions in "Megalo Horio", on the island of Tilos. The chemise is made of a heavy cotton fabric. The sleeves of the chemise are richly embroidered with red and green silk thread. A red or orange cotton dickey (or bib), intricately stitched, is worn at the opening of the chemise. A light-weight cotton dress, with a very simple design on the back side, is worn over the chemise. The skirt is heavily pleated. Originally a woven red and black striped sash, approximately 7 centimeters in width, was worn around the waist. Today this sash has been replaced by one that is hand-crocheted. Unlike most of the costumes of the surrounding islands, a large, folded scarf is used in place of an apron. During the Italian occupation, however, a small Greek flag was substituted for the scarf (apron). The red velvet headpiece, with pointy shape, is reminiscent of Medieval Times. The base of the head piece is covered with a rectangular, light-weight, cotton scarf. Each end of the scarf is embroidered with a cross-stitch. The scarf is attached to the base of the headpiece by using an elegantly detailed brooch.

In 1991, Paul Ginis traveled to the island of Tilos to conduct his research. Mr. Ginis observed the women still wearing this costume, signing their traditional songs and dancing their traditional dances.

Costumes: Dodecanese - Rhodes

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The woman's costume consists of a hand woven white cotton chemise, embroidered with light-colored threads at the hem line. A black cotton or silk-finished dress is worn over the chemise. The dress is fitted at the bosom, but pleated and free-flowing at the skirt. The skirt is decorated with rows of bright green, yellow and red ribbons. A hand woven, dark maroon sash is tied around the waist. The head scarf, either blue, green or red brocade, is folded into a triangle shape and tied around the head in such an intricate manner that the shape of a rose appears at the side of the head. The women purchased these scarves in the Agora from Carpatheans. Beneath the scarf a small cotton cap is worn. The leather boots are of an unusual construction; two colors are used: the bottom half of the boot is beige and the upper part is black. Originally, the boots were embroidered, later, however, colored threads were used instead within the seams. Rows of gold coins may be hung from the shoulders down to the knees for a bride to show her dowry.

Costumes: Dodecanese - Kastellorizo

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Setting sail from their small dry island, the wealthy sea captains, merchants and sailors of the island of Kastellorizo were able to reach all the Mediterranean ports. Their return home was marked by many expensive gifts they brought their wives. When worn, these gifts would serve as sign of their wealth. Their jewelry consisted of bracelets which often reached up to their elbows. Most of the women also wore 2-3 rings on each finger. In order to show them, they would cross their hands in front of their chest. Thus we find, on this small island, an impressive costume, rich in decorations which were worn from the day of the engagement until the woman's senior years, during celebrations and daily activities. The costume served as a statement that even if they became old they were rich enough to have another one made.

The kondovratsi, a kind of short bloomers, is gathered at the waist by the vrakozoni and ends below the knees. The opening of the white chemise is secured with buckles, the so- called voukles, usually six in number. The kavadi orchrysos sakkos is a kind of dress open down the front. A sash, the zooms, is draped around the hips. The costume includes the gouna, a costly overcoat, trimmed with fur, or the kondochi, a similar, but shorter version of it. We present both versions. the head-dress consists of a small cap, the raxini, which is encircled by the band-like tsaki. Both are covered by the krepi, a large silk shawl of Chinese or Spanish make.

Ioanna Papantoniou

Costumes: Dodecanese - Karpathos - Olymbos

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These costumes are still worn by the villagers and they represent significant stages of their life.

The sakofoustano (the first costume) is the unmarried woman's version. The girls from an early age dress in this for everyday or festive occasions. Originally, the preferred material was oriental silk, brocade with a busy floral design on it. Nowadays, they still use similar prints, and the same colors but they choose fabric with more freedom. The costume consists of a pleated skirt and vast ornamentation (about 25 centimeters wide) around the hem comprised of bright colored ribbons, rick-racks, and as we can see on the newer version, sequins. The blouse-like top is also heavily pleated on the front and the lower part of the back. The adornment on the bosom is very similar to that of the hem. The belt is sewn onto the blouse and also decorated. In time, the hand-crocheted lace has been replaced with manufactured lace and has come to border the hem. The apron is worn over the skirt, but underneath the blouse. The large white scarf, the mantili, which comprises the headpiece has a crocheted edge with sequins and small beads. It is tied in such a way that the floral design on it shows at all times.

The newly wed woman's costume is the same as the unmarried except that she also wears a black overcoat, thekavadi, and they trade in their white mantili for a black one. They are supposed to wear this for the first 40 days after the wedding, after which they take off their fancy, shinny sakofoustano and replace it with a simple, cotton chemise. In the opening of the chemise and around the neck and sleeves, they use a small cross-stitch rose embroidery.

Costumes: Crete

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The traditional Cretan costume is fashioned from blue felt by a special tailor, the so-called levendoraftis. The distinctive feature of the costume is the vraka, a kind of wide baggy trousers. The older type of vraka had a longer sela (the part which hangs behind) reaching down almost to the ankles. A sleeveless waistcoat, the yileki, and sleeved jacket, the mindani, are worn the one over the other. The zounari, a sash about 8 meters long, is wrapped around the waist and a silver knife, the basalis, is tucked through it. The kiousteki, an ornamental chain for the watch, is an indispensable accessory. The boots, known asstivalia, are white or black. A black kerchief of special knit edged with a fringe is tied around the head. A cape, the capoto, flung over one both shoulders, completes the costume.